Day 97: Mile 1125.7 - 1146.6
There was a plan for today. And that plan was to try to adopt the Double Snacks hiking style--just for a day--and see how it went. The reason for it? Primarily because my right ankle was still a bit sore--did something to it hiking in the morning yesterday, and a couple ibuprofen had helped in the afternoon, but this morning it was still a bit loaded. So I wanted to take it easy. And the Double Snacks' hiking style is the epitome of "nice and easy" so maybe it would help.
And overall, honestly, I think it did. The ankle would bark every now and then on a tricky rock or a peculiar angle, but other than the best medicine (which would have been resting it for a day) (which is not feasible), this was probably the second best: a relatively light load. No pushing helped: not barreling up climbs, not bombing down descents, not even cruising along flats (although there were not many of those today). Just pull back on the throttle a bit all day, not worry about the miles (assume that they'll come), and take it easy. And it did work: I did not only make 10 by 12, but also did reach my intended destination campsite 20.9 miles away, and that with daylight.
So, overall, I think the Double Snacks style proved viable at least for today. And I think, it's a better style going forward from here: the terrain will likely be smoother than the Sierras, and a more sustainable approach is probably the wiser course. The only drawback would be the mileage, but I think doing nearly 21 miles at elevation over a reasonable amount of daylight, proves that the mileage can come anyway. So, yeah, I'll try this "nice and easy" approach--even going so far as to actively hold back--for the next few days and see how it goes.
As for the trail itself, the day started off with more winding through woods. And then it switch-backed up (on an infinite incline, so not that bad) and got a ridge, which it held for many miles. This made for a pretty nice morning: to one side of the ridge, I could see all the way out to Tahoe, and check out the little ski resorts occupying the canyons below as you passed. On the other side, the mountains just spread out before me, wide valleys and canyons covered in pine-green, a vast space stretching to the horizon--made for some awesome views. And finally, along the trail itself, either next to me at the tops of the mountains, or just below me, I would pass these rock structures that almost looked like stacks of stone, expertly placed, but arranged in these startlingly skew architectures, almost forming little arches, or upright worms wriggling up from the dirt. I would look at these and wonder, how are they still standing?, shouldn't they be tipping over and falling?, but--even in the strong winds--they stayed, as they likely have for geologic time.
In the afternoon, the views were less impressive, and the climbing began. There were two climbs, the first tough but doable, nothing particularly special; the second, up to Tinker Knob, much more work and much much windier. Wind was a theme of the day, in fact, and it was often welcome: on the morning ridge, and even on the first climb, it helped cut through the heat without being blow-you-down strength. On the last climb of the afternoon though, it picked up strength and became more problematic. But the last climb, while tough, did climb up to yet another ridge, and then the trail rode the ridge through these strange boulder fields--the boulders here jagged black rock, seemingly cut by a guen-chie (a "tumble cut", a technique I use in the kitchen for cutting up zucchini), scattered amongst the yellow grasses.
And that was the hike! I must admit I don't have as much to say: it was the first "nice and easy" day, and I did find myself reverting back to some very old habits, like patting trees as I passed, running my hands through taller wildflowers, stretching my arms out in the breeze. I will readily say that I don't necessarily fully feel the emotions those actions imply, but there's also an slight bit of Leslie's Law invocation there, and that's ok by me.
-- Campsite > TRT-PCT Junction > Alpine Meadows Ski Area > Tinker Knob > Campsite
-- I don't think the Double Snacks style is as applicable in the Sierras, for instance, because there I can't really ratchet back effort: I need full effort to make it to the tops of those climbs, full effort to navigate all those rocky descents afterwards. So a "nice and easy" approach where I'm actively holding back doesn't work: I need to put everything on the table just to make it over the pass. Or so at least I think: technically, I didn't try "nice and easy" in the Sierras--maybe it works?
-- In the morning at camp, I had to go to the bathroom, so I wandered far from camp and dug a cathole. And I squatted down, and had already invoked the abdominal muscles when what do I see but two female hikers coming up what I clearly see now to be the trail, but hadn't seen before. Well, nuts, I'm in the middle of this thing and it's not stopping so there's nothing I can do. And they're very polite, put their heads down and pretend not to see me although they can and do see everything, and I reciprocate and am very polite back, put *my* head down, and pretend not to notice them either. And so passes this very awkward--yet very trail-ish--encounter.
-- Towards the end of the day, the trail ascended up past 8000 feet and I noticed that my lungs were starting to stiffen up again--they almost feel like they shrink and get smaller--and I had to take some deep breaths to expand them back out. Not sure if this is more a function of the elevation or the fatigue that comes at the end of the day, but it is something to watch out for in future.
-- Another day spent hiking with Double Snacks. In the morning she headed out early--around 7am whereas I headed out around 7:30am--and I didn't catch up with her until noon. From there we hiked more or less together: we're about the same speed on flats, she's slightly faster on descents, and I'm faster on climbs, so while we would separate on climbs, say, we would reconnect at water sources and campsites. It looks like we have very similar itineraries up to Sierra City at least; from there, we'll see how things go.
-- We caught our first glimpse of the fires ahead, up north. This is the Dixie Fire, I believe. It's clearly still burning--big white smoke clouds--and the last I read, the resulting fire closure is expanding. Right now, folks are talking of skipping from Sierra City all the way up to Chester--the PCTA is definitely recommending getting back on trail at Chester, and it gives a few options for getting off trail, but they're usually not that far (maybe a day or two) out of Sierra City, so many folks are just heading out there (where, likely, it's easier to get a hitch). I haven't looked at the fire closure extensively; will probably do so as I get closer to Sierra City. But it's good to hear the options other folks are contemplating: gives some realisitic alternatives.
-- Today I met Disco and Tea Leaves. Actually, I met them yesterday at the trail magic, but I talked to them more today. They did the PCT previously, and this year are just picking up the spots they missed. Which include the Northern Terminus: after they finish all these little runs, they'll head up and finish off from not-Harts-Pass-but-the-one-before (whose name I forget) and tag the border. Heck of a coordination effort, done mostly by Tea Leaves, to make it happen. I asked about the permits, yeah, they said, there's a story behind that. Originally they had applied for PCT permits and gotten them, but didn't go to *print* them until after their start date. And it turns out if you don't print the PCT permit before your start date, it becomes invalid. So there was a bit of a scramble. Eventually, it seems they got an Inyo National Forest permit (which is easier to get, fairly cheap, and seemingly a backdoor into backpacking the Sierras), and a PCT section permit, so they're good.
-- Today I also met Cactus and Peanut Butter Fly. Actually, I met them yesterday at the evening campsite, but I talked to them more today. Last night, I had walked over towards voices to see if they were AC/DC or Outlast or Dylan, and when they turned out to be Cactus and Peanut Butter Fly, instead asked if they've seen the same. They hadn't, but I ended up talking with them a bit. Cactus is doing the PCT, Peanut Butter Fly is accompanying him for this section. Cactus is from San Diego, soon relocating to Seattle, and was very impressed by Yosemite. But it turns out he's never been to Yosemite Valley and skipped it on this trip as well: I'm focused on the PCT, he said, don't have time for such things. Which is, honestly, entirely fair; and this from a guy who *did* go to Yosemite Valley, and who argued that AC/DC and Outlast, and Lux and Kahleesi, who all have never seen the Valley, really should go because you're in a Yosemite and, c'mon, you gotta go, right? Evidently not, if you're Cactus, and honestly that's fine too. Maybe it's a function of my age, but holding these two opposing arguments in my head, both based on appeals to "common sense", doesn't seem like a contradiction to me. On the one hand, going to the Valley if you've never been is a no brainer. On the other hand, skipping the Valley--even though you've never been--because you're laser focused on finishing the PCT is, also, a no brainer.
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